The hot matador :)
Plaza Mayor, getting filled up for the bullfight
Corrida de toros
Lauren and I in Plaza Mayor
Matching gitana costumes!!!
Yes, I can now say that I have partaken in a truly Spanish tradition and gone to Carnaval! But I first have to mention the most exciting aspect of this weekend- the fact that Lauren came to visit!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I hadn't seen her since July 25th, the sad, sad day that I left the Burrow, so I was ecstatic to see someone who has become one of, if not my best, friends. She caught the train from Madrid on Friday evening, and arrived just in time for us to grab a quick bite to eat before the kitchens closed. The four of us (Molly, Mary Kathryn, Lauren and I) went to Erasmus and got our favorite pincho, a tosta with goat cheese and caramelized onions. It is really fantastic. Molly and I wanted to try a clara, a lemon beer, but were thwarted and were brought a glass of the beer on tap (which happened again today, when we specifically ordered a clara at lunch). Oh well. We went home soon afterward, because we knew we would have to get up early for Carnaval on Saturday morning.
We caught our bus on Saturday morning, all decked out in our costumes (matching gitana, or gypsy, costumes for Molly and I, and a witch-turned-pirate wench costume for Lauren). Why were we wearing costumes? Because Carnaval is essentially Spain's version of Halloween. After an hour-long bus ride, we arrived in Ciudad Rodrigo, an itty bitty town west of Salamanca known for its Carnaval celebration (it had been recommended to us by many people as a good place to go for Carnaval). We walked around the town for a little bit before climbing to the top of the old city wall, the ideal viewing place for the corrida de toros. I guess none of us really knew what to expect from the corrida, so we were very surprised. About ten minutes before the corrida was due to start, the church bells starting tolling, warning everyone who didn't want to run with the bulls to get the hell out of the street. A very sizable group of men remained (including some older men, and also men without sneakers) to run with the bulls (anyone who wants to can do it).
Finally, the corrida began, and, little by little, groups of running men rounded the corner. The bulls charged- well, sometimes. All in all, they were pretty dull bulls. It took a lot of provocation (people wildly waving jackets in front of their faces or grabbing at their horns) to get them to do anything. But every once in awhile, they did something unpredictable (such as the one bull who bashed a guy up against a wall right in front of us (and, luckily, far below us!)and kept pushing him- the guy was fine). It was an interesting experience.
The next main event was the bullfight. All three of us were really on the fence about seeing the bullfight, since we knew, even without having seen one, that it was extremely gruesome. But we decided, in the end, that it was a Spanish cultural experience that we didn't want to miss out on. Luckily, we were sitting next to a Peruvian named Jimmy (who is studying in Salamanca too) who was very knowledgeable about bullfights and was able to answer almost all of our many questions. So I learned a lot about bullfighting yesterday. For one thing, I learned that there are actually four different sequences, with four different bulls and four different matadores. The first bull, who we named Enrique, was definitely a bad bull (which reflects badly on the ranch where he came from- it's a huge honor to have your bull in Carnaval), because he fell a lot, and actually had to be dragged by the tail (along with having colorful flags waved in front of his face by what I can only describe as the assistants to the matador) to get back up. I felt especially bad for him- I could tell he was suffering a lot. I also didn't really watch much of the first sequence, spending much of it with my face either hidden behind my hands or in my lap, and letting out a scream when a spear was driven into poor Enrique.
The second bull, who we called El Diablo, made a much more valiant effort. This second sequence turned out to be a lot more interesting, because the matador was also GORGEOUS (and also probably 15 years old), and incredibly cocky (a few times, he motioned to the bull to come with him in a true "come hither" look, and, in a show of defiance to El Diablo, he would thrust out his chin and look down his nose at the bull). He let the bull get so close to him that his pants were stained with El Diablo's blood. But his risky moves won him a lot of supporters in the crowd!
The third matador was pretty bad- the sword kept popping out of the bull, so it literally took him 7 or 8 tries to kill the bull (who we named Xavi), and the last was pretty good (although definitely not as cute as the really cute matador).
NOTE: IF YOU DON'T WANT TO HEAR ALL OF THE GORY DETAILS ABOUT A BULLFIGHT, DON'T READ THIS NEXT PARAGRAPH!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
So the bullfight unrolls something like this: the bull is released and runs around the pen for a few seconds, building up steam. The assistant matadores wave pink and yellow flags in front of it to get it warmed up (and also to give the actual matador time to prepare). A horse (wearing a blindfold so as not to scare it and body armor so the bull doesn't maul it to death) comes out, and it's rider drives a spear into the bull. The bull, of course, is pissed, and charges into the side of the horse, but the horse is so solidly built that it won't fall over. Then, once it has had a few minutes to recover (and is already losing blood), two guys with smaller spears come out and drive two at a time into the bull, so you can see white, bloodstained streamers sticking out of the bull and flapping back and forth as it moves. Once the matador is ready, he drops his hat in the center of the ring and begins what is a truly beautiful part of the ceremony, where he waves his red flag back and forth and, with pure finesse, evades getting charged by the bull. There were a few close calls, but, at any sign of danger, five or six assistant matadores rush out from behind the protective stalls to come to the matador's rescue. The matador slowly wears the bull down, and, once he feels like the bull isn't responding anymore, he grabs a sword and drives it into the bull's skull. If he hits the right spot, he hits the brain, and blood instantly comes gushing out of the bull's mouth, and he staggers a little bit before keeling over and dying (or he just falls over and dies right away). Someone comes and cuts the bull's ears off and gives them to the matador as they cart the bull away (which, according to Jimmy, is used to feed the poor). You can tell how popular the matador is by how many white flags are waving in the crowd, and he makes a victory lap, as old women throw their scarves, hats and jackets at him. He kisses them and throws them back. It was the type of hero-worship that I would imagine of a Beatles concert!!! Then, the next matador comes out, and the next sequence begins.
Okay, enough of the gory stuff!!!!!!! Despite the fact that I have never seen such cruelty and brutality towards animals in my life (because, let's face it, even though the bull has horns, it never stands a chance), I'm glad I went to the bullfight. It is truly a cultural experience that you don't get outside of the Spanish-speaking world, so it was fun to partake in it. However, I don't foresee any more bullfights in my future!!!!!!
When I referred to "impropriedad política" in the title of this post, I was talking about political incorrectness. And boy, is it rampant in Spain, a fact that became obvious at Carnaval. I'll go on a case-by-case basis:
Case #1: The Arabs: These guys weren't even the worst of them. I would be concerned if I saw someone dressed in a Halloween costume like this in the US.




Case #2: Indian: When someone saw this man dressed like an Indian, he said, "How!" Jeez. Also, please note this man's child, dressed like a cowboy.


Case #3: The "American slave family": When this group came out during the costume parade, I thought something looked strange, but I couldn't quite put my finger on it. The parents' faces were painted black, which I thought was a little strange. Then, I decided that the dress the woman was wearing was a Mamie-esque dress. The announcer only confirmed my suspicion when he said that this was a "black American slave family". Good God Spain! I'm pretty sure that something like this would be illegal in the US...
Case #4: "La china": As we were walking down the street, we saw a group of Asian tourists taking photos. A Spanish guy yelled at one of the girls, "¡China, fotos!" (Chinese girl, photos!). Now, I was taken aback when I heard this. First of all, it was unfair of him to assume she was Chinese, out of all of the other Asian nationalities she could have been, and secondly, he was throwing the stereotype of Asians as annoying photo-takers back in her face.
After we rode the bus back to Salamanca, we quickly changed out of our costumes and got ready to go out. We went to a restaurant we had been wanting to try for awhile (and got our first really good sangria!!!!!!), and then went out dancing for about two-and-a-half hours at Camelot, a discoteca that we've really come to like. They play lots of dance music, and lots of American music (the latter of which is nice, because we can sing along!!!). A bunch of the people there still had costumes on, so it was interesting, to say the least! At about 2:30, I got home, and couldn't feel my toes anymore. I was so happy to get into bed, and when I woke up 7 hours later, I have never wanted to get out of bed less!!!! But I got up, showered, and met Molly and Lauren for brunch. We went to mass (my first mass in Spain! Hooray!), and went to lunch after giving Lauren the requisite tour. We grabbed lunch at one of our favorite cafés, and stopped by our favorite French pastry shop for a pastry (for me), a chocolate-covered waffle (for Molly) and then walked to the Plaza Mayor so Lauren could get ice cream. We sat in the middle of the Plaza, because, with the sun shining and the temperatures hitting unseasonable highs, we couldn't resist. It looked a little bit like a cobblestone version of Healy Lawn, so I got very nostalgic! I can't wait until it REALLY warms up, so we can tan on the Plaza!
It was really hard to say goodbye to Lauren- it literally felt surreal, at so many points in the weekend, that I was seeing her!- but we're hopefully going to be visiting her in Madrid in about three weeks, so it won't be long until we're reunited (and she can show US around!!!!). So all in all, it was a great weekend, and we have a group trip to Extremadura to look forward to next weekend!
I read a really tragic article today on the Washington Post online. The headline was "Georgetown Student Faces Deportation," so, my interest grabbed, I clicked on the link. What followed was a story about a Georgetown sophomore named Juan Gomez, an excellent student of Colombian origins whose parents came to the US when he was two. He was living the American dream, truly enchanted by every aspect of his Georgetown experience. But there's a chance he won't be able to stay in the country, much less graduate from his beloved school, because his parents, who came to the US on a tourist visa when Juan was two, never left, and were recently deported. Juan and his older brother are still in the US for now, but there's a chance that they'll be deported too if something isn't done to change the US's immigration policy. According to the article, Juan's family came to the US to escape a harrowing political situation in Colombia, and, while I don't believe that people should be given a free pass to come to the US and live undocumented, I think that denying people like Juan the American dream would be criminal. The US is the only home he has ever known, and now, in pursuit of a finance degree, his dreams are within his reach, but the US government wants to deny him the chance. I'm not trying to sway your opinion about immigration one way or another, because I know it's a very complicated issue, but please, take a few minutes to read this article:
http://www.washingtonpost.com/wp-dyn/content/article/2009/02/16/AR2009021600937.html?hpid=moreheadlines
Sending you all my love,
Kristen













